So the time has finally come.... I think my DFGT is dead.... While racing last weekend, I heard a rather loud crack from my wheel, and noticed the steering wheel had a bit more play in it than usual. As a precaution I stopped playing and put the wheel to one side until I had time to look at it. Today I stripped the casing and wheel/motor assembly housing and found the casing which houses the bearings for the steering shaft has cracked, top and bottom. And while I'm going to try and repair it (probably bodge tbf), it seems I'm going to have to look for a new wheel now. (Suppose it serves me right for being stingy and not doing it sooner). So, do I go for the logitech 923 or the thrustmaster 248....? Anyone got a good argument for one over the other?
How much do they cost for you? With current prices you can look at entry-level DD wheels like Moza R3/R5, Fanatec Ready-to-Race bundle or Cammus C5. Second-hand market is also an option.
Around £500 for the moza (surprised its only 2 pedal) £629 for a mclaren fanatec bundle Over £1000 for a cammus c5 (wheel only) Logitech 923 just under £200 Thrustmaster 248 around the same as the logitech. I'd love to buy a tip of the range wheel, but I can't justify it atm, I've been doing OK at ranked so far with the dfgt (was ranked #59 after 17 races in uk last weekend when the wheel broke) I haven't been disappointed at the wheel either so I'm thinking next step is one of the two I mentioned?
Damn the black bearing mount was cracked top and bottom, literally split in two, with two more hairline fractures in it too. Decided I've got nothing to lose, so used epoxy resin to join and seal the cracks, then drilled the little supports surrounding the bearing carrier so I could put a cable tie round to hold and give strength to the joint. Don't know how long it will last so time for testing lol Also if anyone ever has to do this or remove the wheel itself, make sure you line up the plastic bump stop simulator as I was a tooth out first time around
I dont have any direct input but on reddit you can go to r/simracing and search the sub for g923 vs t248 and youll get plenty of discussions to read . Doesnt really look like either of them is vastly superior but perhaps slightly more people would go with the thrustmaster. Personally im on a g29 (my second now) and cant complain. It fits my "rig", does all i need it to and its what im used to. But ive also never tried anything else (well except for the g27) so have nothing to compare it to which brings us back to i dont really have any direct input
Haha well it's still input Nico bud! I've never used any other wheel either, so my default thought is to stay with logitech, but as they're practically the same price I want to see if there is any difference to the actual practicality of them...
Now that's tempting, noticed they charge extra for clamp, I assume they have the threaded holes to mount it to a sim rig? Only two pedal set too, am I being picky if I want a triple set lol
Yes. Both with Moza and Fanatec you can buy the third pedal separately. R3 PC version costs 300 USD on their website. With taxes and delivery it should still be below £500. https://mozaracing.com/product/r3-bundle-for-pc/ Table clamp is included btw and it's not a bad one.
I have the PlaySeat so clamp not necessarily needed if the mount matches the wheel plate on the seat. I'll look at the moza but the idea of having to pay extra for the clutch pedal kind of puts me off lol petty I know... So I'm gonna start at the price of a TM 248 wheel, and save up for as long as the dfgt repair lasts, so the longer it lasts the more I'll have to spend as I won't be able to do without a wheel for too long anyway
Not sure they have a connector like the old vga screen connector, they are twin set too. I know i wont make much use of a clutch pedal but for starts it must be invaluable where LC isn't allowed
I first was very reluctant too, switching from my DFGT/ G27 to a more high quality combo, cause, you know, once you've got it you won't go back ever and/or end having a 1000 bucks combo at the very least (where does it end anyway ? Can become kinda Rat Race once you gotta keep it state-of-the-art). So I first took the standard Fanatec CSL (rim drive) and yes even that felt like world's apart compared to the usual plastic editions by Logitech or Thrustmaster. Then the CSL DD hit the shelves and that was another (little) quantum jump ( My first impression : "Uhhh, THAT's how real FFB is supposed to feel, goddamned " - and it's just a low-budget DDW). Btw. I had no issues with it but so far (bought 1st year after release ) BUT was reading about some quality issues regarding the driving shaft/ QR feature recently (known issue with Fanatec anyway).
See for me at the moment it's trying to balance budget with the level of wheel, I don't want to go and buy a wheel that's just a little bit better than the dfgt, as that's wasting my money really instead of helping advance my racing. But I can't really justify pulling out like £1000 for a pro level wheel when I'm really just an amateur atm. So something mid level, preferably dd but not too bothered if its not. I'll just go with the flow and see what happens, was looking at the Thrustmaster t300 rs gt, but if the dfgt lasts long enough for me to save a decent amount I will likely get one of the lower priced dd wheel sets... we will see!
Interesting, I'm going to try and get a dd wheel, if I can make the repair to this dfgt last long enough. I would love a pedal set that is realistic in the brake feel, and I only really want the clutch pedal to try and get a good start