Ive ordered the Leo Bodnar's adapter a few days ago, im still waiting for it, ive read the instructions provided on his site related with calibration, and firmware update, still, im with doubts about the firmware update, provably will have (i hope not) with the calibration of the pedals Should i update the cable firmware with the pedals connected to the adapter ?
I don't recall ever updating the firmware on my cable to be honest. It's always worked perfectly. Try it and see if you have any issues. You will need to use the calibration software they supply on their site to set up your pedals, it's very easy to use and you should only need to do it once. You cannot damage your pedals by using the cable as all it does is read the pot positions (there are no electronics in the pedals, just potentiometers and wires)
Yeah, if this is about the G27 pedals to USB adapter, the latest firmware is now 6 years old, so very unlikely you will ever need to worry about firmware updates.
You might want to play with your deadzones a little bit after connecting them with the software you'll have to download.
Ive skipped the firmware, once each of you suggested, thank you ravey1981, damage the pedals, or the cable, even both, was my concern, so went straight to the calibration software. Ive get this numbers, ive saved the calibration and done a small test in game just by pressing the pedals, all seems good, wondering if theres space for improvement with the calibration tool. In my case was for the g29 pedals Martin, ive decided to get rid of the rubber brick, since i wasn't enjoying it, and about the curve that Logitech added to the g29's break pedals, so when ive removed the rubber brick, it changed the pedal travel. was breaking at 100% with only 70% to 80% travel, which is now both issues solved just by using the Bodnar's cable, and a really basic calibration. .OG Issac, what do you mean, theres some way of tweak the calibration process by adding some data? I saw some numbers, data. but im felling like a bat to be honest, and i dont know where to start. Ive searched a few days ago for some video about the calibration, unfortunately haven't found anything about it.
You can just manually edit the numbers to edit the upper and lower deadzone to your preference. For example, I intentionally keep my clutch with a large upper deadzone so I reach 100 % input sooner, which moves the clutch actuation point to a more comfortable point of the pedal travel for me (as sims often tend to consider the clutch (dis)engaged very close to the 100 % point, which feels awkward to me). I also adjusted both of the deadzones on my throttle and brake, so I don't get response from the sim the moment I slightly touch the pedal (so a bit of lower deadzone) and to make sure I reach 100 % input exactly where I find it comfortable (so I keep a touch of upper deadzone on the throttle, and a bit larger one on the brake, because my brake is modified and requires a fair amount of force to fully depress, so this allows me some fine tuning).
What brake mod are you running? I have an AP electrix load cell and also a TSS brake mod which I am currently in the middle of swapping the pressure sensor to allow an ever harder brake. The AP is great but there isn't much feel in the pedal where as the TSS feels amazing but it's to soft for single seater style cars... Always interested in what others are doing with their g27 pedals. They are a very good base for mods.....
I am running a "stuff a bunch of rubber into the pedal until it feels good" mod And I'm running them out of the casing inverted with a improvised mount. But I'm currently thinking about finally getting some loadcell and see what I can do with that.
These are very much a work in progress. Original brake springs I'm throttle and clutch. Photos show the TSS mod fitted. Pedal extenders I made from aluminium U section and the throttle pad from 4mm plate....