When changing gears fast near red-line using manual clutch and a TH8A H-shifter i hear the engine revs up and hit rev-limiter and the car makes a "jump" forward for every gear. I doesn't do this if i change gears slower and release the clutch more gently. But it should be possible to change gears really fast without any hickups. I get this problem for all cars that i drive with manual clutch and the H-shifter. Tried changing clutch sensivity, clutch biting point but with no luck. Is there something I'm missing?
I would imagine its a combination of too high a rev and clutch bite\sensitivity. Revs too high, clutch out too fast, too sharp a bite = lurch forward. I dont use a clutch ingame but thats the only thing i could think that would cause it.
Noticed that rpm doesnt matter, or at least if i'm changing gears like 2000 rpm before rev-limit the engine automatically revs up those last 2000 rpm and hit the rev-limit. This occurs if i release the clutch really fast. If i release the clutch more gently it doesnt happen. But this should be possible to do, i don't want to drive like my grandma . I can change gears/clutch really fast even in my Corolla Tried all sensivity, deadzone settings with clutch/throttle i can find but with no luck.
Could be, maybe the devs read this and have a look at it. Yes, i want it as realistic as possible and with auto clutch i find it much harder to feel and do a good start off the starting line
Try driving a real race car like that with 350-700 hp, with ceramic clutch and you'll see a behavior you recognize from the game
I think you are misunderstanding me a little. I know that cars with heavy duty clutch can be jerky and not very smooth making jumps forward, but shouldn't they make a better bite of the clutch? In the game when releasing the clutch it almost feels like the clutch doesn't bite instantly and therefor i get over-rev when hitting the throttle at the same time.
Yeah it should bite really hard but that depend on the differential power setting, if that is around 50% it will cause a little rev up before it bite. A 100% will bite instantly and probably cause the back wheels to spin if to much rev. And it also depend on the preload, a preload setting at 3 will also cause little slower bite and maybe a rev up.. a preload set to 1 and 100% power differential will make a car spin on all gears almost any speed will a 50% 3 preload will be more subtle and maby cause the revup. I'll have to test that but gues that could cause it.
Try gear changing on max throtle without cluth, wile accelerating hold throtle to floor and realy fast changing gear and then do the same but blipping the clutch very fast.. there should be a significent difference in acceleration.. and verry different behaviour compared to do a more slower gear change...
I agree, experience the same issue. Try lowering throttle sensitivety to 5 procent. It does not solve the problem but I think it gets better. It's not as clear on all cars i think, more noticeable in the DTM 92 than Group 5th.
OH! I have throttle, brake and clutch sensitivity set to 0% if you have pedals to a wheel for they are analog so don't need sensitivity. You get 100% range with 0% and it's easier to control... example if you have throttle, break or clutch on 20% sensitivity it mean you only have 80% range to push the pedal before you have full range, make it very sensitive. 0% and you have the full range.... easier to control how much you use. Edit: I have clutch bite set to 4
You should keep your pedals at 50%(linear). With 100% they have quicker response the first half of the travel and slower the second half, with 0% it's the other way around. So it's always 100% range..
I like when it is little slow on low throttle so I can keep throttle a 20-30% when breaking hard and it don't give so much response there and get a quick response on full throttle 70-100% so guess I have chosen right to have it on 0% I use to have it on 50%,40%, 30% 20% didn't like the quick response when just touching throttle very gentle so I ended up with 0% finally I find it to give a more realistic throttle
Yeah I think explained that very bad didn't mean you get 80% throttle meant 80 degree pedal will give you 100% if you understand how I mean so you are correct it's always 100% was more referring to how fast it get to 100% depending how the sensitivity is set at.
Tried to put gas, brake and clutch at 0% and it works better for me . Now I could even sneak away with the Greenwood without rev the engine to 9,000 rpm. But I don't think that these settings matter so much if you just run with auto clutch and paddles.
0% is how a real car is in throttle non-linear, I've tried different driving styles from lame to aggressive both auto clutch and without using paddles... Auto Clutch can mess it up little on some cars cause it don't release fast enough it slide to long before releasing.. biggest difference is of cause manual clutch wich I use in start then go over to auto clutch. so you have a point with auto clutch but still the throttle is behaving more as car IRL...