Here is my modified version of Mike's profile if anyone want to try out GT3 FFB are set between 1.300 and 1.500
I've posted a thread about this here but unfortunately no answer was given. The issue is a bit worse than that, because forcing a Xbox One controller to use directinput instead of xinput (as it stands) will also limit it to a combined Z axis on triggers under current firmware/w10 AU drivers, so you can't accelerate and brake at the same time on top of having no rumble. The Xbox 360 controller on the other hand works perfectly OK, as it's recognized properly under xinput - unfortunately it seems harcoded for this particular device, so other xinput compatible device like the Xbox One Controller falls back to directinput instead. Hopefully in the future they either add Xbox One controller ids to use xinput, or enable an option to create a custom xinput gamepad profile instead of forcing it to use directinput. I'm not at the computer with my Xbox One Controller with supplied USB cable, but it's detected by R3E as DeviceId[00]="(50267230, -1, -1, 0)", and has latest firmware 2.3.2381.0, under current W10 AU native driver. Edit: If it helps devs, today I've had access to it. Device Ids listed on device manager are: USB\VID_045E&PID_02D1&REV_0203 USB\VID_045E&PID_02D1
G25 Finally some road feel!! guys i have to share my setup with you and what ive learned from using this g25. So with us g25/27 users the deadzone obviously ruins our straight line road feel but with my setup Ive managed to bring the road noise up and keep the wheel strength down (the pulling factor on the wheel) so here is my guide: Force Feeback intensity - 100% Smoothing - 0% spring 0% damper 0 % Now to get the Bumps on the straight to punch through I have set the steering force feeback to 200% this amplifies the road bumps but also amplifies everything else so late on you will notice my kerb and shift effects are quite low. so Steering Force Feedback - 200% Minimum Force Feedback - 20% Understeer - 0% ( i dont like the effect because it gets too light to quick and the counter steer then is too heavy) Vertical Load - 90% Lateral Load - 0% now ive tested both these in different combinations and they basically do the same thing... the code that determines the vibrations on the wheel from bumps oversteer understeer and cornering forces apply on both of these BUT! the lateral forces adds alot of steering stiffness where as vertical adds only a very tiny amount. now because I have steering feedback at 200% the steering stiffness can get out of hand really quick. so if vertical and lateral both give me bump and tire feels I prefer to have vertical only as i dont lose any information and get less steering stiffnes... because the minimum force feedback also adds some steering stiffness i have reduced the vertical load 10% to lighten the wheel up and bit, i also tried 10% minimum force and 100% vertical but the bumps on the straights dont punch through, so aim for 15-25% minimum feedback and 85%- 95% vertical to suit , btu this is the best setup IF you want to feel the Road as best possible. Steering Rack is at 0% i find the oversteer and understeer tension is perfect already and this would only add more stiffness and muddy up the dynamics of the vertical feeling so for us g25/27 we need as much converstion with the floor when near the center of the wheel and this will just take some sensitivtiy out of it. slip effect 0% again it just takes away some emphasis on the tire/bumps in cornering but can add in to taste .. you would only need a tiny bit as we are at 200% FFB engine - 0% as above Kerb 15% doesnt need much as the vertical has it covered Shift 10% same as above now when you go off track it can be a little rough but thats the price you pay to get the road surface to kick through for our weak centered wheels I mainly race the Porche gt3 - DTM - Sillouette with FFB multiplier 1.000 and these setting translate very well , but for open seated cars you need to increase the multiplier to get the same feeling Hope you like it!! Please Add Me if you wanna race A.Rae (ingame)
Below is all my opinion and typically being me, not so humble. I think you are expecting too much from your G25. 200% steering is way too high, you can set them all between 35 and 80% and have a real nice feeling, with over and understeering loads building and dropping off nicely thru the wheel, with 0 slip effect your missing out, feeling the slip when you push it too hard into or out of a corner is a must, in the profile there are a couple of lines which give load FFB priority\weight to either front or rear tyres iirc, cant remember the exact lines but there are variables to give priority to front or rear wheel and ffb received thru the wheel (i may be wrong, but thats how i read the profile explanation, may even be remembering it wrong) Sorry, i cant imagine you are actually feeling a nice FFB just brute force and not a lot else, i may be wrong again, but as i said its mnsho. My G25 if you want to try it You may not like it at all, but i thought it felt really good for the G25 in this game.
I must actually apologise to anyone going through this tutorial because it was working great for drivers pre (march updates) in reality now 200% is way to strong and 130-140% is the new format. but the theme stays the same for me.. I tested my settings vs the (new) default and its like night and day - the default settings is like amazing things going on lots of effects lots of nuances to help you drive the car vs my setup which is very light wheel and little ffb effects (the wheel should feel light as of pre march feel with 200% and now after march drivers 130% feedback strength)... basically the long and short is the standard setups (yours /default) is the feeling of powered steering with lots of false effects (but good effects at that) ie slip is a canned effect not true road surface effect vs my setup ( only things that actually effect the cars handling pysics come through the wheel) when moving the steering is light untill you start to turn the wheel (no power assistance like a gokart) and road bumps and car shakes can be felt through the steering which would normally be masked if you have all those fake effects going on. after testing both recently it was hard to not be wowed by the difference of default setup and just give up on my setup, but every time I see my car shake and feel nothing in the wheel it breaks my immersion, I would rather have less effects but true .. than alot of pretend effects and one that doesnt work (when the car bounces in a straight). I will definately give your settings a try and to anyone who will try mine i should put a disclaimer that its not a very exciting profile, but It does reflect the visual bumps the car makes more consistently, which was my goal (no immersion breaking). thanks for your input not lifting off , Ill let you know how i get on with your profile
No worries its personal taste that counts. I was under the impression this was physics driven, am surprised its a canned effect either way its one i like
It certainly is a type of physics that drives the system, I mean its not a basic effect its actually serves its purpose. if the car is going fast when breaking it vibrates fast and if you are losing grip harder it has a stronger effect (like real life).. but the actual tire oscillations / car shuddering is not realised in the input/output of the actual track handling. You could however say that because its making your wheel vibrate THEN you ARE feeding that input back into the system via the steering wheel, but is that realistic, i dunno. maybe i turn it back on in that realisation
G25 and G920 ingame settings: FFB intensity: 100% Smothing: 25% Steering force intensity: 70% Minimum Force: 10% Understeer: 65% Vertical Load: 40% Lateral Force: 55% Steering Rack: 100% Slip Effect: 30% Engine Vibrations: 0% (Try 5-10%) Kerb Vibrations: 30% (Try 40%) Shift Effect: 0% (Try 30-40%) Both wheels at 100% FFB Setting in profiler and 0% Centering Force, for the G25 0% Spring and Damper Settings. All sensitivity Sliders at 50% both outside and inside the game, and all Deadzone Sliders at 0%. 540 Degrees of Rotation and 13-20 lock, depending on type of car and personal preference, I wanna have to steer as much as they have to in real life. Probably 900 on some older cars, but I don't know the lock since I haven't tested yet. On cars where the FFB is Clipping you reduce the setting for that car in the Steering Settings. The G25 requires a slightly lower setting there, mostly by one click.
OSW direct drive with MMoS and Granity setting : ********************************************************************************** In-Game setting Force Feedback : ON Inverted Force Feedback : OFF Gamepad Rumble : OFF Force Feedback Intensity : 75% Smoothing : 0% Force Feedback Spring : 0% Force Feedback Damper : 0% Steering Force Intensity : 43% Force Feedback Minimum Force : 0% Understeer : 25% Vertical Force : 113% Lateral Force : 49% Steering Rack : 8% Slip Effect : 50% Engine Vibrations : 0% Kerb Vibrations : 15% Shift Effect 30% ********************************************************************************** MMos Setting Rotation : 540 [Steering Stop] Gain : 60x Max Force 85% [Force Setting] Overall Filter : 8 Min Force : 0% Max Force : 100% [Effect Filter] Damping Filter : 20 Friction Filter : OFF Inertia Filter : OFF [Desktop Effect] all setting not effect to game, just put it away [User Effect] Damper : 60% Saturation : 10% ********************************************************************************** Granity Under Goal tab.... [MUL] Setpoint Multiplier : 100 [DIV] Setpoint Divider : 100 Under Tuning tab.... [TBW] Torque Bandwidth Limit : 220Hz
any OSW (IONI Pro HC + small MiGE) users who can help me with settings? i have tried so many through google searches, all feels bad/ strange and comes out worst than Project CARS...which is sad, because with my old Fanatec CSW2 and CSP2 had R3E so nicely dialed in...any chance I can get some OSW (IONI Pro HC + small MiGE) help here?
Rocafella, i am using exactly small mige/ioni pro/mmos, and using CSW v2 before DD. I have detai tuning information up there, check it out, it needs a special rcs file to run with.
More than just sharing this profile, I am looking for advice to improve or even "fix" it as the T300RS and all the feedback settings are rather new to me. Currently I struggle a bit to "feel" tyre slip at corner exit. The wheel is already rumbling I think due to grip limits at the front wheels. Am I pushing it too hard already that it rumbles through and out of a turn or are some settings just bad? So far I tried to set it up for very few clipping and I mostly want to avoid messing with the ffb multipliers. Benchmark currently is the Bentley GT3 which feels quite heavy and using all the range of the ffb graph. Not touching the ffb multipliers, cars like the Radical feel very light though. Another thing is, the wheel range in the car settings says "N/A", why? I read somewhere that the wheel needs to be ID1 in order for the game to be able to change settings? I have 5 game controllers at my pc, honestly not interested to tinker with all of them so ideas about that would be appreciated too! Sorry for the rather long text, here we go with the settings. Like or hate them, but please help me to possibly improve them (without adding too much clipping). System: Range :600° Force: 100% Constant: 100% Periodic: 100% Spring: 0% Damper: 0% Center: by game Raceroom: FFB: On Inverted: Off Gamepad Rumble: Off Intensity: 100% Smoothing: 0% Spring: 0% Damper: 0% Steering force: 60% Minimum force: 3% Understeer: 60% Vertical: 40% Lateral: 35% Rack: 0% Slip: 75% Engine: 10% Kerb: 10% Shift: 15% Thanks in advance!
Is there anything known about vivuvoucher presets of FFB for different wheel types? Would like to have a suggestion for my CSW base V1 and Formula Rim as a baseline which can be finetuned then.