The setting in game adjusts only slow speed damping, correct. Higher numbers with both settings = more damping, So with a higher setting, the damper piston moves more slowly.
Thanks for the cheatsheet Alex, I just made a pdf out of it and put it on my desktop. Might be an idea to make a mod edit in the OP and put it there too. There's a lot of disinformation in the replies that confused the hell out of me and might confuse many others too stumbling across this thread.
Yes thanks @Alex Hodgkinson, I also made a copy of this list for me and my french league mates. I'm sure it will be useful soon.
Well increasing rear rebound to combat entry oversteer is exactly opposite of what Alex (sector 3 dev) recommends, so I'll stick with his advice for now.
@Alex Hodgkinson I also would like to thank you for your simplified settings list. I just took another 1.5 seconds (on average) of my lap times. And I very much appreciate all the feed back from everybody else. Nice to know I'm not alone in this
I track with my own car occassionally, which has a coilover suspension, it allows me to adjust the bump and rebound at the same time. The spring in my car is not adjustable On the street, which is not completely flat, the hardest bump/rebound setting will cause the tyre to leave the ground more often, and very very bumpy and uncomfortable ride. In turning a corner, the bad surface of the road will throw my car off, and have a lot of wheelspin. My car is just a corolla. In the track, the surface is much more flat, so it is much less of an issue. In Macau street circuit, I know it is very very bumpy in real life, but I don't think raceroom has simulated it very well, so I normally don't touch bump/rebound in the game However, bump/rebound setting does increase the stiffness of the suspension. In my track day, I use it for fine tuning the understeer/oversteer. Please note you should use anti roll bar to adjust your understeer/oversteer. The bump/rebound setting does not have a huge effect on it.
Hi all, @ChatCureuil reports your dicuss on our french forum, be thanks all for sharing your experiments. Just a question to @Alex Hodgkinson about something that I don't understand the logic. You say : Ok for decreasing the front bump so that the car has the weight on front, but increasing the rear rebound cancel this, no ? Normally, we increase that to make the rear wheels keeping contact with the ground longer, isn't it, but it keeps weight that is not transferred on front ?
Increasing rear rebound means the rear tyres unload quicker, as the rebound damping is slowing down droop at the rear.
I'm with Felthat on this one. Increasing the number on the rear rebound has always slowed the weight transfer to the front for me. I use that when I want to trail brake on a car that has the front tires grab and hook when first touching the brake. increasing the rear rebound always seems to smooth the weight shift forward.
Highly exaggerated, but you can alter chassis pivot point some by loosening front bump and tightening rear rebound, left is tight rear rebound and right is loose: While chassis wants to rotate around COG, by having tight rear rebound you can slightly alter that, too tight and rear gets loose when starting to brake as you can really just have so much unloading of wheels before it starts to be too much. So that can lead faster front dive as rear is not rising up so much. Adjustment ranges are then limited, so above kinda exaggerated situation is not possible, but might help to visualize it. If your rear rebound is relatively softer than front, then it does not quite work same, but if your rear rebound is clearly tighter than front bump, then it kinda hooks the chassis and forces front to dive. There are plenty of variables to it though (spring rate, weight distribution etc), but in some cases that is useful, with some cars not so much, at least that is how I have used it sometimes.