FFB Update Discussion Thread (June 2021)

I also have a CSW 2.5 with the same settings as you, I find it very hard, to turn in the bends I have to force a lot, I kept my setup and suddenly my lap times are much slower, you have to review the setups with the new physics, what do you think?

 

My best tip is delete your original settings, rebind everything and then use the FFB meter to set up each car again. I've set the main cars I use to just below the clipping threshold.

 

My setting is:
Fanatec CSL elite v1.1
FOR 90
FFB 90
DRI -2
FEI 60
Ingame (as default):
all to 100
dump 50
Cars (depending):
multiplier between 1 - 1.4

 

Im confused. Is anybody also a CSW V2 user who knows what is the correct "Dri" setting? I have it now on 3?
Also the rest of the settings i have on 100 (For and FF) or off (dpr).

How much different is the CSW V2.5?

FFB is still awesome, but maybe i miss some more awesomness with a bad Wheelsetting.

 

I've opted to try out the new FFB with the M6 GT3 at the Nordschleife as it's the config I've had more running recently and it's definitely a step forward! On my Logitech G29 it's very subtle but you can feel exactly what's going on without any distractions, as an added bonus the Logitech Kerb Rattle™ seems to be gone!

I've opted to delete my previous car setups, they might be somewhat biased by what the previous FFB was communicating and they're not that modified compared to the default ones anyway. Playing around with the FFB strength using the FFB meter, I've also opted to reduce the strength to 90%, now it very rarely exceeds the red line, only at very big compressions with sudden bumps.

Still have to test is how it runs on a softer car...

PS: Oh, and no lap time was lost in my case, first lap was a bit weird but on the 2nd lap I was very close to my PB even after not running for a couple of weeks.

 

thx

 

R

Reduce FOR

 

thx

 

For anyone using a SIMAGIC M10 Wheel Base:

I have found the issue with NO FFB in RaceRoom using the Default Simagic profile. The following line in the Default Simagic profile is the culprit:

[FFB rumble strip wave type="3" // Type of wave to use for vibe: 0=Sine, 1=Square, 2=Triangle, 3=Sawtooth up, 4=Sawtooth down]

Changing the 3 to a 0 seems to resolve the issue.

The SIMAGIC M10 Wheel Base was also never added to the steering_wheels.xml file.

 

It is interesting to note that the feeling of the FFB is personal, whatever the improvements made, the settings can be very different from one player to another while having the same material.
I don't like having to force, others prefer a hard steering wheel, it's like the setups, they are made according to your way of driving, that makes the charm of the games, if everyone had the same settings, there would be no switch

 

Old settings from Georg Ortner for TC-PC work perfectly with new Ffb. Thank you Sector3.

 

Finally had some time to try it...I think it's utterly brilliant. I tried a lot of RWD cars and felt at home with all of them. It somehow reminded me of the FFB of GTR2, but I played that the last time 15 years ago, so my memory might be wrong

Anyway... well done!

 

My first experience with a DD1 was a bit soft and dull. Then I saw the recommendation to turn off all damping and interpolating settings in the driver. There I had the "old" recommeded settings for R3E from fanatec. Turning off NDP, NFR, NIN and INT gave me a crisp and detailed response in FFB without any oscillation or jolts. It's all in the physics with no need to make any adjustments in the driver or wheelbase. Absolutely fantastic. I drive at 100% FFB in the wheelbase and 80% in the game for my BMW M2 rim and 70% for the formula V2 rim. I use the standard FFB multiplicator in the cars setting. Thank you Sector3 for this fantastic update!

 

I am not sure if I am doing this correctly, but this is my way to calibrate the correct strength for my Simucube 2 Pro.
In the guide, I read that you should set the FFB-multiplier for earch individual car so the "sine"-curve in the FFB-meter graph is about 20-30% below the redline. I guess this is only good for steering-wheels with low torque, to prevent clipping while getting as much torque you can. I do not follow this practice for my SC2, as it has enough torque.

Instead, I have been calibrating the overall strength of my SC2 with the FFB-strength slider, from values I have read matching real GT3 cars (average between 8-12 Nm). These values can be wrong of course...
I guess the red-line in the FFB-meter is the max torque your steering wheel can give, in my case 25Nm. So in this case, the average torque of 8-12 Nm should be around 32% to 48% (if 25nm is 100%), hence slightly below the middle between the bottom and the red-line in the FFB-meter graph.
After have been adjusting the overall FFB-strength, you can then adjust the FFB-multiplier as you want.

I think a 70-75% in FFB-strength is good for the SC2 Pro with the GT3-cars. I have not tested F90, or other cars, so I am not sure if they will be correctly affected as with the GT3 cars (hence do not know how much Nm they produce in real life).

 

Perhaps it was mentioned already somewhere……but do I have to delete my whole raceroom folder under > documents or the *.plr file or something else? Or will the new update just overwrite all the old stuff?

 

Which ones are you using please?

 

It should work out of the box. Your custom controller profiles should be cleaned up and have the new default ffb settings for your wheel added...

 

May be a bit off topic and probably already 'old news' but just in case:

Read on several topics about 'dull' feeling when hitting the curbs. Don't forget some curbs are only painted on the tarmac and thus doesn't increase the rumble feeling. Try e.g. Watkins Glen and hit the curbs --> Shaking guaranteed. At least with the DD1 and some recommended settings found in this topic. Thx for sharing!

Hope it helps?

BTW Did I already say this FFB upgrade (yes upgrade because it way more then just an update ) is magnificent excellent work. Thanks to al involved to make this happen!

PS: 3:11PM just received a 82,6MB update.

 

I am still trying to dial in. Maybe half way there. This new FFB is pretty much identical to iRacing FFB. Should we call it iRaceroom?

I will share my settings if I manage to dial in properly. Currently, not very confusing. Just like a few others, I also prefer the old RR FFB as it felt like driving a real car but that is also subjective. Right now, work in progress.

While we are on this subject,
The gear shift effect is great but I've noticed when you are stationary and when you flick it in 1st gear it doesn't give any feedback.

Engine vibrations are also good but only until you start driving. After that there is nothing. How can I get this to work at all times?