R3E my primary sim and most of time i'm with it. If i want come down to earth, i'm launch AC to drive some citizen cars, probably at Nordschleife. AMS for F1 from classic to modern. Before update i have played around 20hrs only with R3E, now i have 143hrs and its increase with every day
Yeah I agree the FFB is a massive improvement but I think it could be tweaked a little further for direct drive wheels such as the AccuForce where it is good but little bit rough at times. Overall though hugely better than it was and the individual multiplier for separate cars takes away so much constant tweaking it is a god-send !
I remember last year i see R3E at Moscow Raceway dyring Porsche Club Challenge. Looks like some drivers use it to learn the track and practice
Hey guys. I have a question about what overall FFB force you use in settings. I'm currently using 100% FFB Intensity and I fix every car individually with FFB multiplier in garage. Usually I've had good experience with current 100% FFB Intensity value but yesterday I bought GTR3 pack and I noticed some differencies with cars. Especially with McLaren and Camaro. In McLaren I could use my current FFB Intensity settings and get a good FFB feeling with the car and not clipping but with Camaro the FFB goes all crazy and graph is pretty spiky going to a redline in FFB meter. Camaro is also pretty bouncy in the corners when compared to McLaren. Can I compensate Camaro FFB issues (bounciness) with car settings or should I drop overall FFB Intensity value like somewhere around 80% and use the multiplier to get a smoother feeling in Camaro and go through all the cars with that 80% FFB settings? What kind of overall FFB Intensity values you guys are using? Is the 100% FFB Intensity a bit overkill? I'm using T300 wheel by the way.
I'm interested in knowing the answer to this too, as have a T300 wheel base incoming (with Leather 28 GT rim I got separately at a bargain price, along with some used Fanatec CSR Elite pedals). I understand that the FFB is quite strong with the T300 (at least compared to the Logitech wheels) and have read elsewhere that some lower the FFB intensity to 75%, which also helps prolong the longevity of the T300 base - is this true?
Well, yes, that is true. The FFB Intensity is simply the strength of the overall forces that is being sent to your wheel. The lower this value is in game, the weaker the FFB will be in your wheel. Simply put, the weaker the FFB is, the less the motor inside your wheel has to work, and therefore wont over-exert itself and wear out quickly. This is true of every single wheel, in every single game though. Certainly not specific to RaceRoom. Think of it this way. When you have a high overall FFB strength, you may feel the FFB clipping in your wheel. This means that the signal being sent to your wheel is telling it to output a strength beyond what the wheel is capable of and is making it work to it's maximum. If you run other mechanical devices at their maximum, they will surely wear out sooner than devices run well below that threshold. Personally, I run the overall FFB strength in game at 62%. Above that and the wheel may start to clip with how my other settings are set up. If you run high overall FFB strength, you most likely have the vertical & lateral forces set very low to compensate for the for the overall strength being high, and vice versa. Hmm, havent noticed that any specific GT3 car feels different in the FFB than any other... and certainly not drastically different enough that I would feel a car bouncing. What are your FFB settings in game? Perhaps they are set up in a way that makes the forces feel quite strong in certain situations. 100% overall FFB strength isnt necessarily common or uncommon as it entirely depends on the rest of your settings. Try running a lower vertical FFB strength. Or, try lowering your overall FFB strength to 80% and increasing the vertical FFB strength 15-20%, as well as the lateral FFB strength up ~10%. You might check around the forum for some specific T300 FFB settings, and give those a shot. Check out the 'controller profiles' thread.
After playing with ffb all night, a twitch viewer suggested I turn down the ffb in the thrustmaster panel to 60-70 range and then use the ffb multiplier to fine tune the ffb strength. It worked. Up to that point, my ffb clipping meter was showing a solid line across the top of the graph while cornering on smooth pavement in a touring classic bmw. What witchcraft is this FFB? I'm gonna try frog legs and dragons breath potions, next.
I have noticed that I do not get stationary friction on my CSW. Is it communicated to wheel via damper (DPR)? It looks like it, because once I change DPR setting to other than off I start to get something reminding friction while standing. What other CSW owners notice?
Okay, just checked (DTM Audi at Brands Hatch) and it is definately there. I got my DRP OFF. BTW: it is really weird to hear a German speaker while in the pits BTW2: could Sector3 PLEASE open Brands GP, pretty please ? Just ran full commitment into the red/white obstruction in my out lap, because I am so used to the GP layout in other sims...
Thanks! I wonder if it has anything to do with a track, because I tried DTM 2013 Audi at Eurospeedway, and i didn't have friction while standing. Can you also share screenshots of your Force Feedback page in game? I wonder if my settings are messed up.
Ok, this is puzzling. Took the same track: Brands Hatch Indy, and I get no stationary friction on any of the cars I tried with DPR off. I recreated new controller profile, no difference. I am pretty sure this effect is communicated through DPR, because I played with this parameter in controller file to verify: FFB stationary friction="1.0" // Amount of friction applied to the steering wheel when vehicle is stationary If I set it to 0, no friction with DPR off/100. But if I set to 1.0, where's very basic friction with DPR at non-off value (that's not how wheel responds on a real car, other sims got it right). Still, Fanapryde, share your in game FFB page if it is not too much trouble. I never had to do anything with G27 to get satisfying FFB in R3E, just adjust per car multiplier. But CSW needs more work, haven't found right settings yet, especially with larger diameter BMW rim. I miss tire slip effect feel from G27 - it felt closer to what I feel in a real car when I abuse it in some parking lot And, karts. I find German announcements in DTM a great contribution to immersion - after all, this is German series And my brands hatch experience is opposite of yours, I learned this track in R3E and when I go to other games, I look for Indy layout, one of the most exciting layouts so far But, yeah, we need GP of course. Who uses Indy layout IRL? It's UK track, so I doubt Indy Car runs there.
I am using these (at this time - since I am still experimenting). On the wheel I have mainly the default setup, only two changes IIRC... SEN --- AUT FF---100 SHO---100 ABS---OFF LIN---OFF DEA---OFF DRI---001 FOR---100 SPR---50 DPR---OFF So far I am liking this settings, but they are obviously not carved in stone and others may not like the feel. I am trying to get as close as possible for my three sims to feel alike. As for Brands (got to check if the speaker is still German when I use other than DTM cars), I think the Indy layout is used a lot. IIRC the BTCC used to run there (I'm sure it was used for BTCC in TOCA) and I have seen recent footage on Motors TV. But I really don't like to take GT3 cars around that bathtub, rather use the GP circuit, especially in the rain...oh...wait...there is no rain in R3E...
I'm using a G27 so some of my settings are slightly lower than yours. The biggest difference on my rig is that I have slip and understeer at 100% . So I know exactly when my tires start to loose traction. It took some getting used to. And at the same time, it brought my lap times down a couple of seconds right from the start. OH and rumble strip is at 80% but then it is a G27. And I like to know when I hit them since half the time it messes with my handling big time.
Wheels are very different in behavior. With these settings I can feel slip and understeer very well. Kerb, engine and shift are canned effects, so I have set them rather low. The kerbs (rumble) don't need to have a higher setting on my wheel either since that leads to too much rattling and is not resembling RL imo. As it is the wheel sends me enough info to know if I am riding a kerb. But again, it probably (surely) depends on the wheel. The G27 (in your case) is much less powerful. It was my first (decent) wheel, but I quickly changed to a T500RS which suited me more and the FANATIC CSW is another notch up (price tag too)
salut les pro comment faire pour avoir le FFB sur raceroom est que c'est un logiciel ou une mise a jour ou un lien car j'ai le raceroom pas de FFB j'ai du mal rouler avec les nombreux réglage sur les forums merci pour coût de main
For my G25 in Logitech profiler FFB is 101%, all other settings to 0, except rotation - 900 To find Force Feedback Minimum Force value, i use WheelCheck app I don't use any effects like SE, EV, KV, SE and can feel under/oversteer, slip e.t.c without problem FFB for every car/track combo is very different, depended from what i see with FFB Clipping widget. Probably i need to set it lower for ~ 30-40% from default
G25 Finally some road feel!! guys i have to share my setup with you and what ive learned from using this g25. So with us g25/27 users the deadzone obviously ruins our straight line road feel but with my setup Ive managed to bring the road noise up and keep the wheel strength down (the pulling factor on the wheel) so here is my guide: Force Feeback intensity - 100% Smoothing - 0% spring 0% damper 0 % Now to get the Bumps on the straight to punch through I have set the steering force feeback to 200% this amplifies the road bumps but also amplifies everything else so late on you will notice my kerb and shift effects are quite low. so Steering Force Feedback - 200% Minimum Force Feedback - 20% Understeer - 0% ( i dont like the effect because it gets too light to quick and the counter steer then is too heavy) Vertical Load - 90% Lateral Load - 0% now ive tested both these in different combinations and they basically do the same thing... the code that determines the vibrations on the wheel from bumps oversteer understeer and cornering forces apply on both of these BUT! the lateral forces adds alot of steering stiffness where as vertical adds only a very tiny amount. now because I have steering feedback at 200% the steering stiffness can get out of hand really quick. so if vertical and lateral both give me bump and tire feels I prefer to have vertical only as i dont lose any information and get less steering stiffnes... because the minimum force feedback also adds some steering stiffness i have reduced the vertical load 10% to lighten the wheel up and bit, i also tried 10% minimum force and 100% vertical but the bumps on the straights dont punch through, so aim for 15-25% minimum feedback and 85%- 95% vertical to suit , btu this is the best setup IF you want to feel the Road as best possible. Steering Rack is at 0% i find the oversteer and understeer tension is perfect already and this would only add more stiffness and muddy up the dynamics of the vertical feeling so for us g25/27 we need as much converstion with the floor when near the center of the wheel and this will just take some sensitivtiy out of it. slip effect 0% again it just takes away some emphasis on the tire/bumps in cornering but can add in to taste .. you would only need a tiny bit as we are at 200% FFB engine - 0% as above Kerb 15% doesnt need much as the vertical has it covered Shift 10% same as above now when you go off track it can be a little rough but thats the price you pay to get the road surface to kick through for our weak centered wheels I mainly race the Porche gt3 - DTM - Sillouette with FFB multiplier 1.000 and these setting translate very well , but for open seated cars you need to increase the multiplier to get the same feeling Hope you like it!! Please Add Me if you wanna race A.Rae (ingame)